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	<title> &#187; dog training seminar</title>
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		<title>2010 Pheasants Forever Wisconsin State Banquet</title>
		<link>http://www.soggyacres.com/2010-pheasants-forever-wisconsin-state-banquet-2</link>
		<comments>http://www.soggyacres.com/2010-pheasants-forever-wisconsin-state-banquet-2#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Jan 2010 14:53:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeff Fuller</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Soggy Dog Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dog training seminar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[labrador retriever training]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pheasants forever]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[puppy training techniques]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wisconsin banquet]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.soggyacres.com/?p=1998</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We are all set for this years Wisconsin Pheasants Forever Banquet and our seminar.  I look forward to explaining to the great folks of the organization how to find a good and reputable kennel, picking a pup from the litter and early training we have used in our training program.
I will also have our Labrador [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We are all set for this years Wisconsin Pheasants Forever Banquet and our seminar.  I look forward to explaining to the great folks of the organization how to find a good and reputable kennel, picking a pup from the litter and early training we have used in our training program.</p>
<p>I will also have our <a href="http://www.soggyacres.com/soggy-acres-desert-fox"><strong>Labrador Retriever Stud Rommel</strong></a> to do several demos of the training techniques.</p>
<p>They may still have tickets available for the banquet being held in the Wisconsin Dells, WI at the Wilderness Lodge.</p>
<p>Hope to see you all there&#8230;&#8230;I have a copy of the seminar outline below.</p>
<p align="center"><strong>Finding a Pup and Basic Training</strong></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Overview</span></p>
<p>The purpose of the seminar will be to inform potential and current puppy owners how to first find a breeder, how to pick your pup, what to work on with you pup from take home to formal training.</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Finding a Breeder</strong></li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li>Online Search</li>
<li>Clubs</li>
<li>Word of Mouth</li>
<li>Newspaper</li>
<li>Breed and Hunting Magazines</li>
</ul>
<p>2.   <strong> Interviewing potential Breeders </strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Speak to potential breeders at length and discuss their breeding philosophy and programs.</li>
<li>Visit the kennel to ensure that they have a clean and professional facility.</li>
<li>Ask for references from either pro trainers or from past clients.  If possible meet several of the dogs at the kennel.</li>
<li>Ask for and review a copy of the health guarantee</li>
<li>Talk to the breeder about the parents health clearances &#8211; to include hips, eyes, and other genetic issues the breed carries</li>
</ul>
<p>-Make sure that the puppy comes with a quality <a href="http://www.soggyacres.com/soggy-acres-breeding-kennel-puppy-guarantee"><strong>health guarantee</strong></a>.  There are numerous people selling pups without health guarantees or a guarantee that is essentially smoke and mirrors.  By that I mean that there appears to be a guarantee, but there is a clause that either doesn’t provide the full balance to be transferable to a future or pup or the pup with health problems has to be returned.  By asking that a pup be returned to enforce a guarantee its my opinion that the breeder is banking on the pup owner not returning their pet of several years, thus they do not have to replace the pup.  At a minimum the breeder should provide the purchase price of a pup to be applied to a pup of a future litter.  The client would also be allowed to keep the other pup, if desired.</p>
<p>-Finding a quality breeder you are comfortable with is far more important than timing.  Take your time and get a good pup with great genetics.  Make sure parents have clearances on hips and eyes.  Also realize that the purchase price of your pup will be one of the cheapest parts of the equation.  Don’t purchase a pup with price alone being the determining factor.</p>
<p align="center">Question Period</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Picking Your Future Champion</strong></li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li>If possible visit the litter on several occasions.  Pups are more active times from one time to another.</li>
<li>Be sure to ask your breeder which pup would best fit your desired characteristics.</li>
<li>The breeder is around the pup for seven weeks and should have a good idea about which pups are more dominant, social, adventurous etc.</li>
<li>If frozen birds or bird wings are not made available acquire some prior to visits and pick up.</li>
<li>Take notes on which pups exhibit the traits you desire.</li>
</ul>
<p>-Prior to take home a new pup owner should have the basics: Crate, lead, collar, bowls for food and water, a quality food, puppy bumpers, 30’ check cord, whistle, lanyard, bird scent and bands, and a good book to reference.</p>
<p align="center">Short question period</p>
<p>3.   <strong>Training from take home to the beginning of formal training.</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Now is one of the most critical periods in your pup&#8217;s life.</li>
<li>House breaking is the first major hurdle.</li>
</ul>
<p>- Crate training as an aide</p>
<ul>
<li>Teach the sit, one whistle sit, here and heal commands.</li>
</ul>
<p>-I personally use food treats to elicit my desired response.  Once the pup is consistent I substitute praise for the reward.  It’s important not to put too much pressure on the pup at this point.  We are going to focus on using praise and make training fun.  Keep sessions short, about ten minutes, and try to do one or two per day.</p>
<ul>
<li>Start developing retrieving desire with “puppy retrieves”.  These retrieves should be short and emphasize making them fun.  Encourage delivery to hand.    Five to Ten retrieves per day is plenty for your pup.</li>
<li>Work with your pup on a lead.</li>
<li>Take your pup to different locations when working with them.</li>
<li>If possible put them in a boat or blind.  Now is the time to begin to introduce the pup to environments they will be exposed to in hunting or competition.  If done now it won’t seem foreign once your formal training begins.</li>
<li>Now is also a good time to introduce the pup to the concept of gunfire.</li>
<li>As often as possible have birds for the pup to work with.  Keep it under a controlled atmosphere.  Nothing keeps up a pup’s spirits more than birds.  I always have wings, frozen birds and try to have live birds for my pups at least once per month.</li>
</ul>
<p align="center">Equipment Needed For this Period</p>
<p align="center">
<p align="center">Short Question Period</p>
<p align="center"><strong> </strong></p>
<p align="center"><strong>Force Fetch</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Force Fetch is the beginning of the formal training period.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>The most common method of force fetch is the ear pinch.</li>
<li>In this method the fetch and hold command are elicited and reinforced using a pain stimulus.</li>
<li>The ear pinch teaches the dog to reach for the desired item, in this case a bumper, and to hold the bumper until commanded to drop.</li>
<li>Demonstration of force fetch</li>
<li>From the force table or raised surface you will work toward walking with your dog and fetching from the ground.  This is called walking fetch.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Demonstration</li>
<li>When the dog will appropriately pick up the bumpers when commanded you utilize a crop or healing stick to incorporate into walking fetch.</li>
<li>Demonstration</li>
</ul>
<p align="center"><strong>Collar Conditioning</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Collar conditioning is one of the most crucial periods of training</li>
<li>A dog must be completely through, and properly trained to avoid a collar-wise dog.</li>
<li>Understanding of commands being used</li>
<li>Proper timing of correction</li>
</ul>
<p align="center"><strong>Quarter-Flush Drills</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Have plenty of birds to start out.  <strong> </strong></li>
<li>Introduce the dog to the concept of quartering with the help of a second person.  <strong> </strong></li>
<li>Set your field with live or dead birds and call the dog back and forth.  <strong> </strong></li>
<li>Have the dog “discover” the birds when he reaches his destination <strong> </strong></li>
<li>Once the dog understands the concept of quartering introduce live birds<strong> </strong></li>
<li>Move to different types of cover and repeat the drill <strong> </strong></li>
</ul>
<p align="center">Short Discussion Period</p>
<p align="center"><strong> </strong></p>
<p align="center"><strong>Equipment needed for the Basic Training Period</strong></p>
<p align="center">
<p>One of the biggest mistakes an owner can make, whether a pet or hunting dog, is to not have a good e-collar.  There are numerous models on the market of varying price ranges.  My suggestion is to find you collar not necessarily by price, but by performance, durability, and functionality.</p>
<p>Other items needed are bumpers, dokken ducks, scent, and lots of live birds.  There are stores that offer all of the above in kits so a buyer can get it in one shot.</p>
<p>When you are working with your dog try to put them in realistic situations.  Joining training groups, going to seminars, working with retrieving clubs and hiring a pro trainer are all great ways to ensure your young dog will know what to expect once in the field.</p>
<p>By having realistic situations I am looking at having someone throw retrieves for you at greater distances.</p>
<p>Working with you pup out of a boat, from behind a blind, or with other dogs around in a competition atmosphere.  Some of the biggest mistakes people make is not providing a dog with the opportunity to work in an environment and then thrusting them into it and expecting them to perform.</p>
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